:: South Sulawesi Islands Travel Guide ::
The province of South
Sulawesi comprises the narrow south-western peninsula of
this orchid-shaped island which is mainly mountainous.
The seafaring Bugis dominate the southern tip, whereas
the northern part of South Sulawesi is inhabited by the
Torajas whose unique culture rivals that of the
Balinese.
Famed for their seafaring heritage and Pinisi schooners
for centuries, the Bugis possess to the present day one
of the last sailing fleets in the world.
The Bugis vessels have sailed to as far as the
Australian coast, leaving behind drawings of their ships
on stone with words that have been integrated into the
Aboriginal language of north Australia. Situated on the
crossroads of well traveled sea-lanes, its capital and
chief trading port of Ujung Pandang, is till today the
gateway to eastern Indonesia. Spanish and Portuguese
galleons, followed by British and Dutch traders sailed
these s
eas
in search of the spice trade, escorted by their men of
war to protect them against the daring raids of the
Bugis and Makassarase who attacked the intruders.
Ujung Pandang, was formerly Makassar, well known for its
Macassar oil from which the English word "antimacassar"
evolved for small covers to protect upholstery. The
fortifications which overlook the harbor were originally
built in 1545. Gowa's most famous king is considered a
national hero, named Sultan Hasanuddin, the 16th king of
Gowa who waged a long and fierce war against the
colonial forces.
The Tomanurung stone with inscriptions can still be seen
in a plot neighboring the royal graves, near
Sungguminasa, formerly the seat of the kings of Gowa.
The Bugis kingdom of Bone, Wajo and Soppeng and the
Makassarase kingdom of Gowa emerged in the 13th century.
Though interrelated through marriage, Bone and Gowa have
for centuries battled against each other. The southern
coast is protected by small archipelagoes and has
excellent facilities for water sports. These islands
have been developed for holiday resorts. Further north,
through rugged country is Tana Toraja, often referred to
as the "Land of the Heavenly Kings".
An ethnic group who believes that their forefathers
descended from heaven onto a mountain some twenty
generations ago, t
he
Torajas have a unique culture based on animistic
beliefs. Known for their grand burial ceremonies on
cliffs or hanging graves, they practice an ancestral
cult even today where death and afterlife ceremonies are
great feasts when buffaloes are sacrificed in the final
death ceremony, after which the deceased's remains are
placed in a coffin and interred in caves hollowed out in
high cliffs.
The mouth of the cave is guarded by lifelike statues,
looking out from a "balcony". As death has such an
"important meaning" when the souls are released, burials
are elaborate and follow days of feasting. Rock graves
are also a form of burial. A strict hierarchy is
followed in the villages.
"Tongkonan" ( family houses) are built on stilts with
roofs on each end rising like the prows of a ship,
representing the cosmos. The mountains offer a fantastic
panorama of natural beauty, including the long drive
from Ujung Pandang to Tana Toraja. South Sulawesi is
also known for its silk industry and silver-work whereas
its e
conomy
is based on agriculture. Ujung Pandang is easily
accessible by air. There are several daily flights from
Jakarta and also daily services from Bali, Surabaya and
Manado.
PLACES OF INTEREST
Makassar
The provincial
capital of Ujung Pandang has in its history played an
important role as the gateway to the former kingdom of
Gowa and now to the whole province because of its
natural harbor. The center of business and
administration, the city has expanded outwards from its
most important landmark, that of Benteng Ujung Pandang
which faces the sea front.
One of the eleven fortresses of the kingdom, it was
built in 1545 during the reign of Tuni Pallanga, the
10th sultan of Gowa. When Gowa capitulated to the
colonial forces under the treaty of Bungaya in 1667, the
fort was renamed Rotterdam by Admiral Speelman who
constructed bastions and buildings of typical Dutch
architecture making it the center of the civilian
government, including a church on its premises. One of
the best preserved forts of that area, only the thick
walls of earth and stones remain of the original
complex, now occupied by educational and cultural
offices of the provincial government. The two buildings
house the Ujung Pandang State Museum, exhibiting
archaeological and historical objects, manuscripts,
numismatics, ceramics and ethnic costumes and ornaments.
Visiting hours of the museum are from 8.00 a.m. until
4.00 p.m. daily except on Mondays and public holidays.
The fort itself is open daily till 17.00 p.m. Dedicated
as a center of culture, the Conservatory of Dance and
Music is located here and on the open stage in the
center of the fort, dance classes for children can be
seen in progress.
Though unmarked, but of historical interest is the
dungeon where one of Indonesia's most prominent heroes
in the struggle for freedom, Prince Diponegoro was
imprisoned for 27 years. Prince Diponegoro was buried in
a family plot in the middle of the city on a street
named after him: jalan Diponegoro. The family tree
displayed on the wall indicated that
none
of his descendants returned to the courts of Yogyakarta,
instead, they settled in Ujung Pandang and their
custodian is a great-grandson.
Mr. Bundt, a Dutchman, has in his private residence at
No. 15 jalan Mochtar Lutfi a collection of seashells and
corals. His spacious garden is filled with rare
Indonesian orchids and hybrids. A visit is worthwhile
and several of the collections are on sale. Mr. Bundt is
registered in the Sander's List of London as an expert
in orchid cultivation.
Sunsets in the Makassar Strait can be viewed from a
promenade at jalan Penghibur or the Paotere anchorage in
the north end of the city where the Pinisi schooners are
berthed.
Across the harbor is Kayangan Island which can be
reached in 15 minutes by ferry. A popular recreational
resort for the people of the city, there is
entertainment in the evening and on Sundays.
Paotere Anchorage
On the outskirts of Ujung Pandang, Paotere is where
sailing boats and other small vessels anchor to unload
their cargo. The setting casts a glow over the sea with
the silhouettes of the boats. This scenery is most often
photographed by tourists.
Samalona Island
Across the harbor of Ujung Pandang is Samalona
Island which has been developed into a pleasant
recreational resort. It can be reached by boat in 45
minutes and has simple accommodation. Recreational
sports include diving, snorkeling, water skiing and
fishing. Best months to visit are from February to
October.
Sungguminasa
Formerly the seat of the kings of Gowa, about 11 km.
from Ujung Pandang is the old palace of wood, standing
on stilts facing the town square across the
administration office. Now the Ballalompoa Museum,
weapons and costumes of royalty are on display in glass
cases.
The royal regalia which includes a stone studded gold
crown weighing 1769 grams can be seen only on special
request.
Tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin
Sultan Hasanuddin (1629-1690) was famous for his
exceptional bravery in his struggle against colonial
encroachment in South Sulawesi. His tomb and those of
other kings of Gowa are located in a secluded cemetery
not far from Sungguminasa, about 8 km from Ujung Pandang.
The huge crypts are gray with age and just outside the
walls of the cemetery, a small fenced-off plot contains
the Tomanurung stone on which the kings of Gowa were
crowned in a show of pomp and splendor. Not far from the
tombs is the oldest mosque in the area, built in 1603.
Malino
Formerly the holiday resort of the kings. Malino,
which is 70 km from Ujung Pandang offers a haven from
city-life. Located on the slopes of Mt. Bawakaraeng it
has a cool climate with forests of pine trees making it
picturesque. Deer hunting on horseback was a royal sport
in the days gone by.
Bulukumba
You will find white sandy beaches at Bira, 178 km
from Ujung Pandang to the south. Traditional ship
building is also located in this area. Not far from this
area visitors can cross to the island of Selayar.
Goa Mampu
The largest cave in South Sulawesi, the legendary
cave of Mampu is about 140 km from the capital. Besides
stalagmites and stalactites, rock formations resemble
human figures and animals to which legends are attached.
The cave is inhabited by bats who shriek and flutter
around when bright lights pierce the darkness.
Bantimurung
To the north of Ujung Pandang and driving east along
the mountain range, is the Bantimurung waterfalls, about
41 km from the capital. A cascade of sparkling water
gushes out between rocky cliffs into a stream shaded by
tall trees. Here the air is filled with butterflies
which fly from shrub to shrub over the water.
These rare brightly colored ornithoid butterflies are
considered the most beautiful in the world.
Leang-Leang
Now declared an archaeological site, these
prehistoric caves have strange rock carvings of hands
and a wild pigs, believed to be 5,000 years old. The
road leads from Maros through the cave-riddled limestone
hills to the site about half an hour's drive from the
airport.
Pare-pare
Pare-pare is a lunch stop along the road from Ujung
Pandang to Toraja, through paddy-fields and typical
Bugis houses made of wood and bamboo, built on stilts.
Here we can find the museum Labangenge, located at jalan
Bau Massepe No. 82, Pare-pare.
Sengkang
THe capital town of Wajo Regency is well-known for
its silk weaving and therefore is the center of Buginese
silk. This area is populated by the Buginese ethnic
group, known for their crossing to other islands as
traders of silk, sarongs and other material. Here we can
find lake Tempe, one of the tourist resorts. Sailing and
boating can be enjoyed on this lake.
Soppeng
Another center of the silk industry, this spinning
mill produces thread from silk worms. Weaving can be
seen in many private homes along this route which is 240
km to the northeast of Ujung Pandang. The finest silk is
hand-loomed by village women who individually need a
whole month to produce two meters of silk. Visitors are
welcome to stop and watch, or make a purchase if there
is any readily available.
Tana Toraja
Tana
Toraja,
(Toraja Land) which lies in the north of the province is
known for its unique culture and ancient traditions. The
center of tourism is Rantepao, 328 km from Ujung Pandang
by road. There are several small bungalow hotels at
Rantepao, and Makale, the district capital. The entry to
Tana Toraja is marked by a gate built in traditional
boat-shaped architecture. The road passes through the
mountains of Kandora and Gandang on which, according to
Toraja mythology, the first ancestors of celestial
beings descended from heaven.
The majority of the people still follows an ancestral
cult called "Aluk Todolo" which governs all traditional
ceremonies. From Rantepao, side trips can be made to
Kete, a traditional village where there are handicraft
and unique shops. Behind the village there is a grave
site on a hillside. Life-size statues guard
over old coffins. As roads are not always paved, it is
necessary to use a jeep or walk if the weather is good
(between May and October). Two cliff graves easy to
reach are Lemo and Londa. Londa is one of the oldest
hanging graves belonging to the nobility. A large
balcony is filled with effigies of the dead. Kerosene
lamps with young village guides, can be hired to enter
the caves to see skeletons and old coffins. At Lemo,
burial chambers are cut out of the rock and several
balconies filled with effigies look out while new caves
are being dug to serve as family graves.
There are several grave sites and traditional villages
of which Palawa is a classic example of a village on a
small hill with "Tongkonan" or a burial place with
celebrations and festivals. Visitors are welcome but
they are expected to adhere to local customs of dress,
seating and bringing a token present.
Enrekang
236 km to the north of Ujung Pandang, you can see
beautiful landscapes at Bambapuang, located 20 km from
Enrekang to the north on the way to Tana Toraja. Here
can be seen an erotic mountain called Batu Kabobong, by
its shape formed by the valley and slopes. A rest house
is built on an elevation, giving a clear view of the
countryside.
Polewali - Mamasa (Polmas)
Polewali is the capital town of Polmas Regency located
246 km north of Ujung Pandang. It is inhabited by
Mandarnese, Buginese, Torajans and Javanese ethnic
groups. This town is well-known for its silk sarongs
which is called "Sarung Mandar" and rattan furniture and
crafts. There are several small islands to be reached by
fishing boats in 10- 16 minutes. All these islands, have
white sandy beaches.
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